The key is to increase the surface area beyond the flat plane of the top of the Pi's own CPU enclosure. Almost every one of them will do an adequate job dissipating heat. There are zillions of Pi CPU heatsinks available from Amazon ( here's the heatsink kit I used). 2 - Bare Raspberry Pi with CPU Heatsinkīest for: Keeping the CPU from throttling under load-but just barely and not in a case. And the heat can make its way over to the microSD card, possibly reducing its stability or longevity. The board still gets noticeably hot-enough so that a finger touching the wrong part could burn you (though you shouldn't pick up a running Pi with your greasy oily hands!). Towards the end of a stress test, it throttled for a few times, but only for a brief moment each time. Since there's no case constraining air flow, natural convection carries away enough waste heat from the CPU and other hot parts of the board to keep it from throttling-at least most of the time. It's silent when you don't have a fan attached, and best of all, this is how it comes out of the box. The barren Raspberry Pi is useful when you're building a new project, playing with GPIO pins, or testing a new Raspberry Pi setup. The Pi was plugged into an official Pi Foundation USB-C AC adapter (except in the case of the PoE test).īest for: Tinkering or testing new things.The Pi is running the latest firmware/bootloader which fixes the USB controller's energy usage.Every test was performed on the same 4 GB Pi 4 model B, using the same 32GB Samsung Evo+ microSD card updated to the latest Raspbian OS revision.
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